A rail to rail means sliding one rail, popping off the side of it and landing on a second rail running parallel to the first. It looks like a transfer, but nothing is thrown across a gap the way a heelside transfer is - the cable does most of the work. Once you're up on the first rail the line tension is already pulling you towards the second one, and your job is mostly to stay balanced and let it happen.

Before you go for it, hit the first rail on its own a few times. You're not practising anything new here, you're learning how that particular rail feels underfoot and how hard the cable wants to drag you sideways off it. That pull is the thing you're going to use, so you want to have felt it before you commit.

Do your first rail to rail from a 50-50 rather than a boardslide or lipslide. The margin for error is far bigger - your board is already pointing where you're going, so a bit of extra or missing rotation on the pop doesn't cost you the trick. If you can ollie onto the rail instead of riding up the ramp, do that too. It's a more controlled entry and you land on the rail already balanced instead of getting bumped onto it.

On the rail, keep both knees bent and let the cable pull you across. When it's time to go, a small pop is all you need - this is not a jump, it's a hop sideways onto something a metre away. Aim to land on the second rail in a boardslide position, flat base, knees soft.

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Video by The Peacock Brothers

Key tips

• Hit the first rail on its own a few times before linking them - learn how hard the cable pulls you sideways
• Learn it from a 50-50, not a boardslide or lipslide. Far more margin for error
• Ollie onto the rail if you can. A controlled entry makes everything after it easier
• Both knees bent the whole time you're on the rail
• Small pop. The cable is already taking you across, you're just clearing the gap
• Land in a boardslide position with a flat base
• Front arm strong but never pulling on the handle. Pulling creates slack and slack kills your balance